Mike,
I have not used that particular product, but many others in the past.
There are products that may enhance a better glide of your fly line via the rod guides. If, however your line is well worn there is not much you can do about it, go buy a new one.
Same also if your guides are well worn.
On the subect of fly lines, which can be a controversal subject, depending on the view , there are primarily three.
Profile, color, and its inherent floatability, so far as a dry line is concerned.
The main issue l have to deal with so far as my clients are concerned is this.
That the fly line does not float high for one reason or the other.
The worst set up to cause the line to sink at the tip is a braided loop, ok for sunk line, but for dry line, no way in my book.
The second is a line that has had no care, or has been left on a reel for some period of time, and a few other reasons, such as casting on grass or other none water surface, that will ruin the best of lines in a hurry. And leaving a fly line to the adverse effects of heat and direct UV light.
Here are my reasons for why.
I dry line that sinks at the tip, or through its length , does not allow for slick mending as the submerged line aggrivates drag in all ways.
You cannot lift it off the surface.
It is also way more affected by subsurface movement.
This situation worsens when you are fishing water that does have surface disturbance such as you would find in riffles and shoals, have you ever noticed how your line gets pulled down in the current wash.
I can guarantee you that, it is way easier to correct drift and drag if the line is on the surface.
Does your indicator or dry fly move big time when you try to correct drift, l accept that it may also be the manner in which you are doing it, or both !!
A line that is sunk also impedes the speed that you can set a hook, you have to pull the line through the water instead of lifting it off the surface.
It also inhibits a good clean lift, when you are fishing deep or with added weight. Do you notice how all of a sudden the fly speeds up as it leaves the water.
A line that has its tip section sunk below the surface will often be the cause of spooking fish, and there are other reasons, the main ones l have written here.
So what is the solution to this problem.
I know of no fly line out there that will after a period of time not have a tendancy to sink.
As a rule if you buy one of the top brands, which in my book is very important for a dry line, SA or Courtland, for me, you will have a line that will last a great deal longer than most, and will have a far better floatabilty factor in its manufacture.
Not to mention its castability will be greatly enhanced.
I accept that if you are fishing warm water creeks, that are not always as clean as the trout systems, then you may not wish to go that way.
Clean your line regularly.
Stretch you line on a regular basis before you start to fish.
This takes out pressure curves that also will cause the line to sink at those points of angle.
The means that you attach a butt, or leader is important here.
I use the no knot system, and l do not know of one that can beat that.
Short sections of Amnesia is another way to go. But at any rate try to avoid large connections of loops and knots.
There are reason for that, which l will deal with on a future post.
Remember that F/carbon leader or tippet material sinks around 4 times faster than mono, that will also cause the fly line tip to sink. If you are using it for the means of subsurface fishing, ok, you certainly do not want it for dry fly or above a indicator.
Fine if it is added as a section to regular mono or co-polymer as the means to present the fly the way you wish it. Without the use of a indicator.
Fly line dressings to enhance high float.
There are a number out there.
I have used Mucilin for some 40 odd years, and l have yet to see a product that is as good. It is a non fluid silicone.
But it does have one downside. The container that they sell that product in is useless. In hot weather the silicone will become a fluid and your fly vest will suffer for that.
I remove it from the container and put it in one of those little jars that contains Carmex, take that out first of course.
If it has become fluid then hold the container in cold water, it will harden up the Mucilin,
M - is good for the fly line and also the leader. May also be used for your fly.
Next option would be Loon, Aquel, that l like also. Does the same as M, but it is a fluid. Can be messy for fly line application.
There are some others out there, these two are my personal preferences.
Do bear this in mind. Any addative you use to enhance float of the line will attract surface grime, so it is important to clean the fly line after use.
Little things such as this make a great deal of difference at times, l can assure you.
Davy.
