Rear deck for Gheenoe

[DSchlact]

I'm slowly trying to make some updates to the layout of my Gheenoe Classic to make it a little more open and fly-fishing friendly.  Up next on my list is removing the clamshell style seat from the rear bench, replacing with a flat cushion, then covering the rear bilge area where the gas tank sits with some type of deck.  This would really open things up when I have a guest along.  I fish up front from the front where there is already a "low front deck" installed from the factory, but whenever I have someone come along, they are stuck standing on the uneven surface in front of the rear seat or straddling the rear seat/bilge area...neither of which are very comfortable for any stretch of time.

My first thought was to just use some 1x6 knotty pine that I have on hand unless I can find something else that is reasonably priced and would meet the needs. There would be some small gaps between the wood planks (like the deck on a house) and wondered if this would be an issue with fly line.

This is the area I am looking to cover.  Will either hinge or make it removable to maintain access to the gas tank/bilge.



Any other suggestions...I'm open ears.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

[MikeA]

What about using Starboard and going on top of the gunnel? You could easily match the contour of the boat that way. That would be the easiest solution if you aren't fiberglass inclined. 

[TimM]

Resident plastics geek piping up here...

If you expect the piece to support any sort of load I'd stay away from Starboard. This is just a trade name for HDPE which as a class of material has a very low flexural modulus (resistance to bending) value.  Not only that but it is particularly prone to creep even with low static loads..meaning that if you leave any sort of static load on it then over time it's going to be more prone to assuming the shape of a well worn saddle. For general frame of reference the flexural modulus of pine is a little more than 900% of the flex mod of HDPE....meaning that at the same thickness it is more than 9 times stiffer/more rigid than HDPE would be.

Choose and perish. 

Actually the foam core stuff (forget the name) is a great compromise between rigidity and weight but there is a price to pay for it and that is cost.

Sometimes thoroughly water protected pine is a good answer.

[MikeA]

Sometimes thoroughly water protected pine is a good answer.

It's been working for me for two years now. Mine was just a temp platform to see if I liked it. I guess I liked it cause it's still there. 

[jgray]

I am (literally and figuratively) in the same boat as you.  It really is painful to stand pigeon-toed all day in a Gheenoe.  I'm putting in a false floor in the front b/c my dad isn't able to stand on a high deck.

 I generally stand on the benches, but I want to put rod tubes in so, even though I don't need a false floor in the back, I'll have to extend the rear seat. Nashville Plywood quoted me $53 for 1/2" marine ply whereas Advanced Plastics (also in Nashville) quoted me $145 for 1/2" Coosa. Even if I do the plywood twice, I'm still ahead. 

[jgray]

Look at this video from the guys doing the Geobass videos - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwlNL87ZbgI

They put a carbon fiber poling platform on top of the rub rails on a Highsider.  I think it's pretty sweet, but I bet it cost a pretty penny.  (They got Carbon Marine to make it, so I guess you could get a quote if you were interested.)

[lawnman]

Ask the guys at advanced plastics bout PVC board.  It comes in 4x8 sheets like plywood, it's heavier than coosa but lighter than plywood, I used that on my classic front and rear deck.  If price is no object than go coosa but if your like me the few lbs it saved was not worth it, I glassed mine in and covered it with one layer of cloth and added sand to the paint for grip, works great.  I also did rod tubes in the front, 2 on each side.

[DSchlact]

I wanted to stay under the gunnel because it will give a nice natural feel when your toe hits the edge that you are getting too close...and will also keep with the look of the rest of the boat.

I like the idea of trying it with the pine that I have and seeing if I like it.  The boat is stored in my garage and since I never go fishing I probably don't even have to seal it, in reality this is just to give my wife more places to stack stuff in the garage 

I've seen some teak "bath mats" that are actually 1" thick teak decks that could possibly work.  I'd have to frame up some supports underneath, but I'll be doing that anyway to provide the clearance I need for the bilge hose and motor cables.

Thanks for the input...feel free to keep it coming if you have any other thoughts on this.

Dave

[bd]

If you're going to put that much work into it, why not move your gas tank forward to the center box and do a big, flat seat and false floor in the back?  It would definitely be a project, but if you have the ability and you're able to put the work into it, in my opinion the layout of casting deck in front, gas tank and battery in the center box, and big flat seat/deck in the back is the best gheenoe layout you can have.

[jgray]

I spent 4.5 hours yesterday sanding and fairing the bottom of my Gheenoe.  I will spend another 3 hours today.  Next weekend, I will spend about 3 hours applying GatorGlide to the bottom. Ten and one half hours to fix something that wasn't really broke.

Sometimes good enough is just that, and it should be left alone. 

[DSchlact]

If you're going to put that much work into it, why not move your gas tank forward to the center box and do a big, flat seat and false floor in the back?  It would definitely be a project, but if you have the ability and you're able to put the work into it, in my opinion the layout of casting deck in front, gas tank and battery in the center box, and big flat seat/deck in the back is the best gheenoe layout you can have.

Well, that's just it...I'm not really interested in putting much work into it at all   I'm having the bench cushions done professionally, then just want to do something as simple as possible (ideally with materials I already have on hand) to deck off the rear...and speaking of ability, I can find my way around a wood shop ok, but wouldn't even know where to start with a fiberglass job.

jgray - let me know how you like the GatorGlide.  It is an epoxy based product right?  After my "run in" on the Collins last summer I've been thinking more and more about putting something like that on the bottom.